April 2010
Feature - Lush Green Lawn

Instead of laying it, try sowing it…

Whether you are just starting out and you need a completely new lawn, or you have an established lawn but want to avoid bare patches caused by dense shade or the rigours of summer living, the solution could lie in a box of specially blended summer- and winter-growing lawn seed mix.

The best times to sow lawn seed are spring and autumn. It is easy to do and the results are relatively fast, but there is preparation work that must be done well, and there are sowing tips to learn.

Preparing for a new lawn:

· Grass will grow in almost any soil type but drainage must be good and the pH of the soil should be as close as possible to neutral (6,5). In the case of very acidic soil, a dressing of lime at a rate of 250g/m2 is beneficial.

· Add loads of quality compost (which will help to preserve moisture longer) to the soil and dig it over to a depth of about 30 cm. At the same time, add superphosphate or bone meal according to the recommended rate on the packaging. Remove stones, weeds and old plant roots from the soil as you work.

· Apply a general balanced fertiliser (like 2:3:2) at the rate of 60g/m2 and gently rake it into the top layers of the soil.

· Water the prepared soil well, using a fine sprinkler, and let it lie fallow for a few weeks. Any weeds that germinate can then be removed manually or treated with a broad spectrum weed killer.

· Measure the whole area to be planted. The specific seed that you use will determine the quantity you require. For example, the seed you buy may indicate that 500 g will cover an area of 25 m2. (For the most accurate sowing, you would use string to mark out the area in square metres.)

· Water the soil quite well the day before you actually intend to sow the seed. This will also give you an opportunity to examine the area and level out any hollows and bumps by raking again. Use string or tape to cordon off the area to be planted so that it won't be trampled on while the grass is becoming established. (If you have children or pets you may need to get a little more inventive with your protective measures.)

· Don't sow on a windy day; rather water again and postpone the sowing for the next day.

· Use the shaker that is supplied with the seed or make your own dispenser by punching holes into an old tin can. Spread the required amount of seed evenly across the area. To avoid missing any spots sow half the seed in one direction and the other half across in the other direction.

· Cover the area with a thin layer (5 – 10mm) of fine compost or lawn dressing and compact it gently, then water using a fine spray. Exposed seed is very appealing to birds.

· Keep the soil surface moist for the first 10 to 14 days, still using the fine spray. At that point the seed should have germinated, in which case you can reduce the frequency of watering. Note though, that to have year-round green lawn you will need to water regularly, increasing the frequency when the rainy season in your area is over.

· Allow your new grass to grow to a height of 8 cm before mowing, and never mow it to lower than 5 cm.

· Fertilise with a nitrogen-rich fertiliser in early spring; repeat with a specially formulated lawn fertiliser every 4 to 6 weeks. The application of a balanced product like 2:3:2 will enhance the root development of your lawn and is recommended during the cooler months.

Over-sowing an existing lawn:

· Mow the lawn quite short and rake vigorously with a rubber rake to remove the old ‘mat’.
· Spike the lawn with a sharp garden fork and then fertilise with either superphoshate or bone meal according to the application rate on the package. Water well.
· You are now ready to start sowing and then do aftercare in the same way as described above.

Different blends

There are many varieties of lawn seed, and many blends. Some of the mixes are 'evergreen' as they include both summer- and winter-growing grasses, which ensures cover all year long and which can be used in shady places. They are mostly tuft-forming grasses that do not need spring scarifying or topdressing and which must be mown with the mower blades set higher than for runner-type lawns.

· Mixes for year-round green

There is a selection of winter and summer varieties that produce an attractive hard wearing lawn that remains green all year round. They can be sown throughout the year and are hardy, but unfortunately not suitable for hot and humid areas.

· Mixes for shade
There are also specially selected blends of evergreen grasses that produce an attractive green lawn in areas of light to heavy shade, where runner-type lawn grasses battle to grow. These blends can be planted throughout the year, but best results are achieved in autumn. If you have large trees shading portions of your lawn it is a good idea to over sow with this seed on a regular basis, to ensure that bare patches don't start appearing again.