April 2010
Herbs that pack a punch!
By Alice Spenser-Higgs

Take a look at the herbs that are top of the list in the ‘hot and pungent’ group.

As a natural flavouring for food herbs have stood the test of time. What would a pizza be without oregano, tomatoes without basil, or a leg of lamb without mint sauce? It is debatable whether herbs were first used for flavouring or for healing, but the fact is that most culinary herbs are multipurpose. Cooking with herbs can be as simple as going into the garden, picking a sprig or two and adding it during or towards the end of cooking, however, when one becomes familiar with the different kinds of flavours that herbs can impart the culinary landscape really opens up.
Herbs can be classified into five flavour groups: lemon flavoured, hot and pungent, savoury, liquorice, and sweet, and then there are also edible flowers. Knowing how the herbs fit into those categories makes it easier to experiment and to use them to add a subtle element to every dish. This article looks at those that top the list in the 'hot and pungent' group.

Cayenne and paprika peppers (CAPSICUM annum varieties) are annuals that need sun, plenty of water (especially when flowering) and soil that drains well because they can develop botrytis in heavy waterlogged soil. Don’t let them wilt as they drop their flowers and that means no fruit. On the coast, shelter the plants from strong wind. Feed with a liquid fertiliser once a week. Pick the fruit regularly so that the plants are encouraged to continue flowering. Fruit can be frozen whole, dried, pickled or made into hot sauces that can then be frozen.
Cayenne peppers are very hot but the heat can be moderated by removing the pith and pips. Fresh cayenne peppers can be used in any dish with cheese, eggs, fish, chicken, pasta, cabbage, cauliflower, mealies and aubergines.
Paprika peppers can be used in any dish with chicken, eggs, cheese, cream sauces, baked vegetables and aubergines. They are the mainstay of Hungarian cooking, especially goulash.

Winter savory (SATUREJA montana) and summer savory (SATUREJA hortensis) are small, bushy perennials with bright green leaves that have a peppery taste. They need full sun and free-draining soil. Don’t over water and cut back in spring to encourage new growth. Use the leaves in place of salt and pepper in cooking, add them to vegetable, meat and dried bean dishes. Use them sparingly as they have a strong taste.

Rocket (ERUCA vesicaria) is a leafy annual that is used exclusively as a herb in cuisine because of its tangy, peppery taste. It can be grown all year round, but grows best in cool weather. In hot weather it tends to bolt and flower, which results in the leaves becoming bitter. When this happens it is best to pull out the rocket and sow a new batch. It germinates quickly and can be harvested within three weeks. Use the leaves in salads and sandwiches, and add them to sauces and salad dressings.

Garlic (ALLIUM sativum) is prized for its bulb, which is used to flavour all kinds of meat, combined with most vegetables, and added to sauces, marinades, stuffing and herb vinegars. To grow your own garlic simply plant individual cloves, with the tips pointing upwards, in well composted soil in a sunny position. The bases of the cloves must be buried and the tips can be just below the surface or sticking out slightly. Green shoots will appear within days. The new garlic bulbs should be ready to harvest within four months and once harvested they should last for a few months if stored in a cool, dry place.

Ginger (ZINGIBER officinale) is grown for its root, which peeled and finely chopped or grated and added to fish, chicken and pork, used in marinades, steamed puddings, biscuits, spice cakes, with beetroot, squash, and for making ginger beer and herbal drinks. It is a perennial that is reasonably easy to grow in most climates, liking semi shade, rich warm soil and plenty of water. It is grown from pieces of root placed in trenches and earthed up. Dig up the plants in autumn and wash and dry the roots before storing them in a cool dry place.

Nasturtium (TROPAEOLUM majus) is an easy growing annual that bears yellow, orange or red flowers. Its light green, round leaves have a distinctive peppery taste. It grows best in full sun and in soil that drains well. It tolerates poor soil and should not be over watered or over fertilised as this causes it to produce leaves at the expense of flowers. The leaves, flowers and seeds are used in salads, sandwiches and in cheese dips.

Chives (ALLIUM schoenoprasum) grow easily from seed and will grow in sun to partial shade. Like spring onions, chives also form clumps but only the leaves are harvested (by cutting them off at the base). New shoots emerge quickly. If fed with liquid fertiliser at half the recommended strength once a month new leaves will be produced for two to three years. Divide the plants or sow new seed when they lose their vigour. Use chopped chives in salads, in dips, cheese dishes, omelettes, soup, bread and muffins.

Coriander (CORIANDRUM sativum) is a hardy biennial that is often grown as an annual. It grows best in a sunny position in rich, light soil. The strongly flavoured leaves are used in curries, stews, stir fries, salads and egg dishes. Coriander can be left to go to seed as the dried seed is also used in cooking.

Many thanks to Louis van Aswegen from Doonholm Herb Farm and fellow herb grower Margie Frayne of Meridian Herbs for their help with this article, and particularly for sharing the names of the herbs they categorise as 'hot and pungent'.