August 2010
Sweet Herbs
By Alice Spenser-Higgs

Sweet flavours and good looks go hand-in-hand in the herb garden. Stevia, rose-scented geranium, pineapple sage, mint, lavender and angelica are some of the herbs with these attributes.

Sweet herbs are the herbs of summer, used for flavouring fruit punches, desserts, teas and teatime favourites like cakes, biscuits and scones. With the exception of stevia, which is so sweet that it can be used as a substitute for sugar, the herbs with a sweet, fruity or aromatic flavour are not overpowering. Their presence is subtle, adding just a hint of pineapple in the case of pineapple sage or pineapple mint, or lemony-rose in the case of rose geranium. Herbs that fall into this category include angelica, cinnamon basil, the mints, pineapple sage, lavender (if used very sparingly), sweet cicely, stevia, rose petals and rose-scented geranium. Although they are not regarded as sweet herbs, the anise flavour of dill, fennel and agastache leaves also adds sweetness to food, cold drinks and teas. Rosemary can also be used for flavouring biscuits, cakes and drinks, but, like lavender, it too should be used in very small quantities otherwise the end result can be bitter.
Unlike their savoury counterparts, most sweet herbs are not known for any strong medicinal properties, but they are used for skincare, as well as having other household uses. They are also very welcome in herb and flower gardens because of their attractive leaves or flowers, or both.

STEVIA rebaudiana
• Stevia
Stevia is said to be 300 times sweeter than table sugar and it has become known as nature's natural sweetener. It contains almost no calories and is cholesterol free, so it is an option for both dieters and diabetics. Chewing a fresh leaf of stevia helps curb the craving for something sweet, making it a healthy alternative to chocolate, cake and other fattening food, and a really useful herb for those with a sweet tooth. Chewing stevia also reduces the desire for tobacco and alcohol.
Stevia is a compact, bushy perennial that is evergreen, grows to 80 cm high and about 60 cm wide. It is frost sensitive and so needs protection in winter. It does best if grown in full sun, in well-drained soil that has been enriched with compost.
The degree of sweetness of the stevia leaves varies according to the growing conditions and timing of harvesting. The leaves are sweetest when the plant is forming its flower buds, making this the peak harvesting time, but the leaves can also be picked while the plant is actually flowering. The leaves should be left to dry in a cool place. Once properly dry they can be ground to form a powder that can be used in cooking and to sweeten tea and coffee. Unlike table sugar, stevia powder does not trigger a rise in blood sugar, so there is no sudden burst of energy after using it.

PELARGONIUM graveolens
• Rose-scented geranium
The rose-scented geranium is an attractive, medium-sized bushy shrub that bears small mauve flowers in summer. It is evergreen and frost tolerant. The leaves have a strong rose fragrance.
It grows best in full sun but tolerates light shade. It grows easily in any soil that drains well and to which compost has been added before planting. It also thrives in containers.
Fresh leaves and flowers can be picked throughout the year and used to flavour sorbet, water ices, punch and other summer drinks, as well as syrups and jams. Sauces, custards and jellies can be flavoured with a strong infusion of the leaves. When baking a cake, if the baking tin is lined with the leaves the cake will be infused with their flavour. The leaves can also be chopped finely and added to the dough of scones, biscuits and cakes.
Besides their culinary properties, the fresh leaves can be added to bath water, and the dried leaves included in potpourris and in herb pillows, where they will impart their relaxing and soothing fragrance.

SALVIA elegans
• Pineapple sage
Pineapple sage is a very showy, bushy perennial that produces spikes of red flowers throughout summer. With its lime green leaves and a height and spread of 1,5 m it makes a strong statement in the garden. It can be used as an individual specimen, planted as a hedge or used with other shrubs in a flowering border.
It grows easily and quickly in sunny areas that are sheltered from frost in winter. It requires well drained, composted, fertile soil. It should be pruned in spring or after flowering, but without cutting into old wood.
The leaves have a pineapple scent that delicately flavours iced tea, punches and fruit salads. When used with pork it imparts a sage-like aroma.

Mentha species
• Mint
Mints in any form deserve a place in every herb garden because of their culinary diversity. Their flavours complement salads, vegetables, roast meats, and hot and cold drinks.
It has become tradition to plant mints under a dripping tap because all varieties like moist soil, but mint grows and spreads so quickly that it is a good idea to grow it in pots that can be sunk into the ground. This makes it easier to lift the pots and trim off the runners. Mints grow best in partial shade and should be fed regularly with an organic fertiliser. The plants die down in winter but come up again in spring.
Garden mint and spearmint (MENTHA spicata and varieties of it) are used for mint sauces and jellies, and to flavour cakes. Apple mint (MENTHA suaveolens) is also good for mint sauces and jellies, and with cooked vegetables and in salad. Basil mint (Mentha x piperita f. citrata 'Basil'), which has a basil-mint aroma, is used to add flavour to melon, tomatoes and fruit salad. The chocolate-peppermint flavour of chocolate mint (a variety of MENTHA piperita) makes it a good addition to puddings, ice cream and some drinks. Ginger mint (MENTHA gracilis) is delicious in salads, teas and drinks, as is 'mint julep' (MENTHA spicata 'Julep') which has a striking fresh flavour. The leaves and flowers of pineapple mint (MENTHA suaveolens 'Variegata') can be added to salads and fruit salads, and used as a garnish.

Lavandula species
• Lavender
Perennial lavender barely needs an introduction. The variety that is regarded as the best lavender for use in cooking is LAVANDULA x intermedia var. 'Margaret Roberts'. The leaves and flowers can be added in small quantities when making shortbread, biscuits, jellies, ice cream and custard.
All lavenders like to grow in a sunny position, in well drained soil. Once established, they do not need a lot of water, preferring a deep watering once a week. Lavender planted in pots does best in morning sun. The plants can be trimmed after flowering, but one should avoid cutting into the wood. Even with trimming, bushes should be replaced every three or four years as they tend to become straggly and woody.

ANGELICA archangelica
• Angelica
Angelica grows into a large shrub with branching stems. It has light green leaves and bears clusters of white or greenish white flowers. It is frost hardy, does best in light shade and likes moist, rich soil. Although angelica is a perennial, it will die if it is allowed to flower and go to seed. It does, however, seed itself freely.
The crystallized stalks are used for flavouring and decorating cakes and pastries. The young leaves can be added to fruit salad and cooked with rhubarb and gooseberries to reduce their sourness. The seeds are used commercially to make liqueurs such as Chartreuse and Benedictine.