June 2010
Riches for subtropical areas

Vegetable gardeners in the subtropics have the edge on everybody else when winter arrives – here’s what can be planted in those areas in June. If you aren’t one of those lucky people read on anyway, and start compiling a wish list for when you can start planting.

While the rest of us are donning winter woollies, gardeners in the Lowveld and subtropical coastal areas can make the most of the cooler temperatures and lower humidity to grow their best vegetables of the year. There is a long list of vegetables that can be sown in these areas in June: beetroot, brinjals, cabbage, carrots, cucumber, watermelon, peas, pumpkin, radishes, spinach, bush and trailing squash, Swiss chard, tomatoes and turnips. Lettuce, green beans, broccoli and cauliflower should have already been planted (but you can do one or two more succession sowings if you hurry). Hardy herbs such as rocket, sorrel, sage, fennel and dill can also be sown. Being able to grow vegetables at a time when other gardeners can’t is almost reason enough to relocate, consider this:
- The best quality gem squash are grown at this time of year. The harshness of the summer heat has gone and the humidity is lower so powdery mildew is easier to control.
- Cabbage matures a lot quicker and develops a good sized head a lot faster than in other parts of the country – from planting to harvest should be around 100 days.
- Cucumbers are usually highly priced at this time of year, so growing your own will save money.
- Brinjals sown now will have fruit ready for eating in October, many months before the rest of the country.
- Pumpkin seed sown in June will yield pumpkins for Halloween.
- Determinate varieties of tomatoes sown now will probably not need to be staked because the lack of rain means it isn’t necessary to lift the fruit off the ground.
- Peas are generally sweeter and more tender when grown at this time.
- Watermelon seed sown now will provide you with juicy fruit by December, in time for Christmas.
l With the lower temperatures and shorter days the gardening tempo is much more relaxed than in spring and summer.

Selecting vegetables
With so many options the hard part is choosing which vegetables to grow. Start by considering what your family actually likes to eat, otherwise you may find the appeal of growing a particular vegetable isn’t matched by their enthusiasm at the table. The most relevant question for this time of year probably goes something along the lines of “do we want to eat lots of salad or do we like the idea of winter soups and stews?”
Also factor in the delicious possibility of having fresh veggies when no one else has, even if they take longer to grow. With good planning and layout it is possible to combine quick and medium crops, such as planting brinjals near the back of a bed with spinach, lettuce and cabbages in front. Also bear in mind that pumpkins, melons and some squashes take up a lot of space.

Be ruthless
Making space for winter crops may require a deliberate clearing out of the garden. In colder areas the lower temperatures bring plants to the end of their useful lives, but this doesn’t always happen in frost free areas. Be quite ruthless about clearing out crops that are past their prime.

Succession planting
Succession planting can carry on right through winter. For a continuous supply of a particular vegetable it is necessary to sow three to four successive crops, two to three weeks apart. The decision also depends on the vegetable itself. Vegetables that cope with higher temperatures like tomatoes, brinjals, squash, Swiss chard, beetroot and carrots have a much longer succession planting window than peas.

Soil care
Traditionally soil is allowed to rest in winter but because this is prime growing time it makes sense rather to rest the soil during the very hot months of January and February. At that time weeds will be a problem but they can be prevented by putting down a thick layer of mulch or using weed control fabric. The fabric allows the rainwater to penetrate and the earthworms to thrive, but suppresses the weeds. Layers of newspaper are a low cost alternative.

Sowing and care
As with any other time of the year, first enrich the beds with compost, remove stones and break down clods of earth so that the soil texture is fine. If rich soil is further enriched with compost the vegetable crop will not need additional feeding as the nutrient uptake in winter is not as rapid as in summer. Keep the seeds moist during germination but be careful to avoid over watering because the soil retains its moisture far better with the milder temperatures. Germination rates at this time of year are usually more successful. (The same applies to growing perennial herbs with cuttings – the success rate is considerably higher than in summer.) As the plants grow, watering and feeding requirements will still be less than in summer, because of the milder temperatures and shorter day length.

Watering
The good summer rains have lifted the water restrictions in most areas of the Lowveld but it is still a good idea to follow water-wise practices. It is estimated that a good layer of mulch can reduce watering by 30 to 50%. Another water-wise strategy is to install drip irrigation. Lay this on top of the beds so that it is visible and can easily be moved when preparing the soil for new crops. It is no problem to lay mulch on top of the piping and once the vegetables are growing the leaves also hide it.

Tip: burying the drip line can cause problems if the water pressure is high. This is because negative pressure develops when the tap is switched off, which sucks the water and soil back into the drippers causing blockages.

Pests and diseases
There is less insect activity and disease in the cooler weather but watch out for opportunistic insects like grasshoppers. Birds and monkeys will also be attracted to the soft new growth. Netting can generally keep the birds and grasshoppers out, but not the monkeys.
Strips of red and white tape (used at construction or roadwork sites) can be used to frighten the monkeys away. Tie the tape onto the fence or where it will blow and crack in the wind. It also catches the light and is reflective at night. One Lowveld gardener uses small crackers or squibs which scares but doesn’t harm the monkeys.
Aphids can be dealt with by controlling the ant population at ground level with organic formulations containing natural pyrethrin or garlic juice extract; these act as repellents.
Snail numbers are generally reduced, and those that do visit can be controlled with organic snail bait (such as Ferramol), or allowed to drown in beer-filled containers. Crushed eggshells or macadamia nut shells can help to keep them away from the crops too.

Information supplied Andrew Dominy of MayFord Seeds (011 548 2800) and by Di-Di Hoffman of Bouquet Garni Nursery, potted herb grower and marketer. Visit Di-Di at www.gofoodgardening.com or phone him on 082 416 7145.